Boxcar Kitchen

a big dinner from small onions

Tuesday, March 20 2007

Picketing for pie: Blackberry rights

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Originally, this was supposed to be for the Waiter, What's in My...Pie event but that didn't really work out. Well, actually the pie BEFORE this one was supposed to be for the event but that pie quickly turned into the pie that WAS. This one almost suffered the same dangerous fate if not for the sheer and heroic willpower of my mother.

On one of the many blustery nights when I was back home, my mom and I decided to turn on the oven, heat up the kitchen and make ourselves a pie. And since we all (my pops included) think that blackberry pie is hands down the best pie on the planet, the flavor decision was unanimous. The smell of flakey crust and bubbling berries soon filled the house and we all sat around the kitchen waiting impatiently; very, very impatiently. When the oven timer finally went off, it was dark outside and there was no light left to shoot the pie. So, we ate it. All of it. Well, we did share it with my aunt and uncle but still, there wasn't a single sliver left to photograph.

What to do? We did what any good bakers do. We made a second pie the very next day. The crust was even closer to perfection and not a single ounce of berry juice spilled out through the venting. The pie was picture perfect. The only problem was that once again, it was evening, there was no light and the very bad berry pie monsters were getting hungry; very, very hungry. You know that you're a goner when your reasoning starts going something like, "Well, if the three of us only eat half of the pie tonight, that leaves an entire half for pictures tomorrow."

And then, it happened. A slow and steady chant began to fill the room, "More pie, down with photos!, MORE PIE, down with photos!, MORE PIE, DOWN WITH PHOTOS." To my surprise I heard my own voice echoed by my dad's. We were pie possessed and the official unofficial pie strike had begun. We chanted; we stomped our feet; we paraded through the living room. We were united!!!! No backing down until we had more pie!!

Our solidarity paid off, we got our second piece, er... I mean 1/3. I'm almost ashamed to admit that I ate 5/6 of a blackberry pie in less than 48 hours. But then again, it was good; really, really good.

PS: My mom was the only one with enough willpower and thanks to her sacrifice there was one piece left the next morning. This photo is dedicated to her.

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Wednesday, March 14 2007

A cake to savor

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Let's get the mingle started!!! Monthly Mingle is here again and Meeta steps it up a notch (well, at least for me) with a great Savory Cakes theme. This is absolutely the first time in my entire life that I have ever made a savory cake and it's exciting. I was a bit hesitant at first but I am really happy with the end results.

I don't know why, but savory cakes were not something that I ever encountered before coming to France. Which is strange because they seem like they could have been found in the baking section of some scary 1970's cookbook, right along side tuna wiggle (although much tastier).

I remember the first time I ever even heard of one. It was few years ago and a bunch of us were getting together for a light Friday night dinner and drinks party and I called the host to see what I could bring. As he was going through the list, he mentioned that someone was bringing their signature olive cake and it was to die for. My first thought was 'Blech, you won't catch me dead with that near my lips' and my second though was 'Crap! I was going to bring dessert'. I know, a total blond or whatever sort of moment. For some reason, my brain refused to decode the obvious.

All day until the party, I thought about this strange cake and about what could possess someone to serve olives for dessert. My mind was doing leaps and bounds trying to figure out what the recipe could possibly be and I was at a loss. When we finally arrived, we sat down and there it was, the famous olive cake, on the coffee table amidst a bevy of cocktails and other hors d'oeuvres. And it was good. And it was savory.

  • The hub had an excellent idea for this recipe. He suggested serving these warm colored slices with a light whipped chive cream. I couldn't have thought of anything better if I tried.

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Thursday, March 8 2007

Maybe it is all about me

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Helen from Tartelette tagged me for "5 things about me" last week, so here goes.

1. Although I would have never believed it as a child, I am now a firm believer that you can learn to like food that you may not like the first time around. I have tested and proven this theory on one very reliable person- myself. For three years, I ate one raw oyster per year always at Christmas time and finally like a bolt of magic from out of nowhere, on the third year, I liked them! I was very pleased and feeling quite a bit like a Life cereal commercial. Everyone around me was surprised and pleased and congratulations abounded. You would have thought that I had won a Noble prize, but no, I ate an oyster and liked it. I can now accompany my husband to our favorite local oyster bar and I can down my very own dozen for dinner. The same goes for steak tartar, rare meat, Brussels sprouts and spinach but not necessarily in that order.

2. I really like bridges but I still close my eyes when I go over the really really long scary ones. Pont Alexandre III is my favorite bridge in Paris. And I like the Tapanzee Bridge but most of that is just because I think the name is cool.

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Thursday, March 1 2007

Everything old is new again

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Perfect timing! A muffin craving just in time for Elena's from Experiments Muffin Monday!

Marion Cunningham's The Breakfast Book makes reading about breakfast feel like eating breakfast. Everything is soft, warm and inviting. Probably one of my favorite recipes is her Last Word in Nutmeg Muffins. The simplicity of the recipe makes it one of those things that you don't necessarily have to get up early to make. For the longest time we just made them straight up. The soft creamy nutmeg crumble left nothing else to be desired.

But then we started thinking like little scientists and our desire to one up got the better of us. What else could we add? My mom and I went through a whole gammet of ideas: apricots, rolled oats, dried cherries, figs, etc... In the end we decided not to mix anything in the batter for fear of weighing it down. The winning combination was coarsely grated coconut on top and turbinado sugar for the sides.

The sugar dusted sides resulted in two delicious surprises. First, the sugar on the tops of the muffins crystallized and was the perfect additional crunch to the toasted coconut. The sugar coated muffin bottoms almost caramelized to form a sticky sweetness. They tasted like doughnuts, little joey bag o doughnuts as we called them, but even better.

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Friday, February 23 2007

Over the moon

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Snowbound. What do you do when you are literally snowed in? Well, you really only have two choices. The first is to approach the wide white world with shovel in hand followed by hours of shoveling and snowblowing; the second is to snuggle down even further under wooly blankets and really enjoy the coziness of a good roaring fire. Luckily for me, I wasn't the one out there shoveling.

No, I was safe inside with my mom. Huddled around the kitchen window, we watched as the men battled the elements. And so, as a gesture of our solidarity, we decided to do the only thing we could do. We lit up the oven, turned on the KitchenAid and began to bake.

The beginnings of half moon cookies tumbled golden brown out of the oven faster than the snow fell and soon they were lined up in prim rows dressed in shiny frosting. Our task was done and it was time for the real challenge to begin: the Scrabble challenge. After snow and cookies, Scrabble is the third mandatory element to the perfect snow day.

After consecutive days of multiple games and increasingly impressive scores, I've still only managed to win one game. Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm off to find a word to land the perfect triple word score.

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Sunday, February 18 2007

Seducing Mr. Winter: SHF #28

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This past week I flew into New York to spend a few weeks visiting my parents. I had decided to wait to do my Sugar High Friday entry with my mom since I figured that it would be a great first project for the two of us. Plus, for some reason, things always seem to taste better when they come out of your childhood kitchen.

We very quickly decided on one of my mom's best "For dinner parties-To impress" recipes: Mocha chocolate mousse with raspberry liqueur compote in chocolate shells. Everyone who has ever tasted this dessert, even those non-chocolate lovers, has succombed to its chocolatey wiles. Not only are you knocked out by the double duo of chocolate and raspberry, but the presentation itself is pure seduction.

Huddled over the stovetop we listened as the weather channel reported on the biggest snow storm of the century (well, sort of). We were hoping that the seductive smell of warm molten chocolate would ward of winter's angry ways or that ruby red berries would at least conjure up distant memories of long forgotten summer afternooons. It seemed that the more we stirred, the more the snow came tumbling down. The end result was enough chocolate mousse to feed Emperor Qin's army and snowbanks as long and as high as The Great Wall of China.

Snowbound and hungry, we lavished our plates with this decadent dessert and seduced ourselves sick.

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Wednesday, February 7 2007

Honey lemon tarts for my honey

Once again Meeta has chosen another great Monthly Mingle. She is bringing us Sweet Love to the table: an homage to our valentines and sweets that say I love you and nothing screams sweet love like sour lemons, at least in my house anyways.

I didn't have to think very hard to find the perfect treat for the hub. Lemon tarts and pain au chocolat are pretty high on his list of favorites and yet I never make either of them. By the time you tally up all the bakeries in Paris that make exquisite bread and pastries, making certain things yourself starts to seem useless. But the fact that we were very recently deceived by some no good very bad tartelette au citron, I started to think that maybe I could do better. Then, not only could I please the hub but I could also finally break in my new tartelette pans!

I got the honey idea from this month's issue of Food and Wine. One of the featured desserts is a honey lemon custard served with crème fraîche. Although I don't usually use honey in my baking, I was intrigued by the idea and decided to give it a whirl. I actually changed the recipe quite a bit by cutting yolks, adding whites, more zest, less honey and the results are phenomenal. The honey doesn't just add sweetness. It brings out this whole other mellow warm flavor that is the perfect foil to the zip of the zest.

I think that this curd is by far the most unique and sophisticated that I have ever tasted and I had a bit of inspiration as I was filling up the last crust. This lemon curd is so good that I think it is worthy of an attempt at recreating Keyser's feuilleté au citron that has now become famous among my family and friends.

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Monday, February 5 2007

Lamb biryani

I absolutely adore Indian food. It's just one of those things that I could eat everyday for breakfast, lunch or dinner no matter what. The combination of spices and stewed vegetables get me everytime. India has held the number one slot on my list of places to visit probably since I was about ten years old. And since I haven't been able to just pack up and go, I eat instead.

I've tried several different Indian restaurants here in Paris but I haven't really found the one I love. There are a few alright places but I'm always disappointed by the missing heat factor. The warm combination of spices is usually pretty good but I'm not satisfied unless I'm perspiring which means that when I'm craving Indian food, I usually make it myself and in huge batches that last for days.

Traditionally, the French aren't huge on spices and are even less interested in that "it's so hot and spicy that I can't even breathe it's so good" phenomenon. But a few weekends ago, we were having lunch with a friend who just happened to have returned from a trip in India the night before. Since there was a curry on the menu I, of course, ordered it and Marion did the same since she was already experiencing withdrawals. The vegetarian curry was filled with all sorts of delicious vegetables: fennel, eggplant, pumkin, etc...and the flavor was good but it was just droopy in the heat department. I was sooo happy when my friend made the same comment and then lamented how different real Indian food is from the stuff we get here in Paris.

I decided then to make it my mission to make an Indian inspired dinner for Marion. So for the last week or so I have been scouring books and trying out recipes, hoping to find the perfect dish to prepare. I ususally make a chickpea cauliflower curry that is fabulous but I've gotten a little bored with it lately and I want something just as simple but with a few more layers of flavor. I found a great recipe for Balinese duck curry that is literally to die for. The heat and flavor were perfect but I could feel the coconut cream based sauce clogging my arteries.

This biryani is my newest trial and I'm pretty pleased with the results. I usually lean towards vegetarian dishes but I've been in the mood for lamb and I thought it might please the husband. Personally, I will add more hot pepper the second time through and I think I'll throw in some vegetables to balance it out and make a one dish meal. Parsnips would be nice.

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Friday, January 26 2007

A bout de souffle: Sweet lime soufflé

So what's the secret ingredient to a perfect soufflé? I've been attempting to answer this very question for quite some time now and when Tami at running with tweezers decided to launch a soufflé-centric Hay Hay It's Donna Day, I figured that I would give this finicky food another chance.

My previous attempts were based on a savory cheese soufflé but this time I thought I would try to recreate the fabulous lime soufflé that I had this summer at our favorite seafood restaurant in Brittany.

I probably would have had better success if I had stuck to a real recipe but I wanted to see what would happen if I lightened the whole thing up a bit: ie. cut down on the amount of yolks and butter. I literally held my breathe for the 30 minutes of cooking time and sat in front of my oven door, fingers crossed, willing the soufflés to rise. When it finally came time to remove the desserts from the oven, I was indeed breathless. They had puffed!!! I pulled them out of the oven... and they were still puffed!

I think that these are the best visual results I have had so far but I was once again disappointed with the overall texture. The magical puffiness still eventually just sort of deflates and turns to yummy goop and I'm still nowhere near my dream of the perfect soufflé.

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Wednesday, January 24 2007

Chocolate chocolate bread pudding

Well, I missed Sugar High Friday. I don't know how, but my brain was completely scattered and I missed Monday's deadline. Oh, well. But since I already had bought all the ingredients and have been thinking about this event for the past two weeks, I'm not going to let a little thing like a deadline keep me from enjoying a fine chocolate dessert.

Now, I know this might sound strange but I'm not really one of those people who crave chocolate desserts and actually, I very rarely make them. Chocolate mousse and brownies are pretty much the extent of my chocolate repertoire and most of the time I order something creamy or fruit based when we go out to eat. This is not to say however that I would actually go so far as to REFUSE a chocolate dessert. I will scarf it down but with just a tad less excitement than is due.

My mother and sister have been talking about chocolate bread pudding for ages and I still hadn't given it a try. I could eat a whole pan of regular bread pudding in a heart beat and I am a creature habit so I had been putting off the chocolate version.

Now that I have made this pudding, one thing is sure. It is defintely being added to my list of chocolate desserts with its rich chocolate custard and occassional crunchy crust.

In keeping with the SHF theme, I chose to use the chocolate that I always use. It isn't anything incredibly fancy but it does the trick. I used Nestlé corsé which is 64% cocoa. I had a bar and lots of remainders of bars tucked in the back of my cupboard. I like to buy it for baking and then I end up nibbling on the bar until there isn't enough left to make anything (hence the lots of little bits). I also added some Van Houten cocoa powder for good measure.

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